Europe . France

Visitor’s Guide to Château de Chenonceau

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Château de Chenonceau is my ultimate favorite castle in the Loire Valley. The entire estate looks like it came out of a storybook. Not only is the castle itself quite stunning, but the history of its strong female inhabitants is sure to pique your interest. I was so intrigued after my visit that I knew I needed to write a guide to Château de Chenonceau.

The Loire Valley is home to over 300 spectacular castles. Chenonceau is the most visited in the area and a famous UNESCO world heritage site. One of the most unique parts of Château de Chenonceau is the castle’s long bridge that crosses the River Cher. The section of the castle spanning the river is known as the grand gallery. 

We visited the château as part of a day trip from Paris to the Loire Valley. Our travel guides took us first to Chambord, followed by lunch at a local vineyard, and finally, a stop at Chenonceau. The entire experience was spectacular and the perfect conclusion to our trip to Paris.

 

Whether you are looking for ideas for a Paris day trip or are staying in the Loire Valley and are interested in exploring some of the top attractions, I highly recommend you visit Chenonceau.

Guide to Chateau de Chenonceau

History of Château de Chenonceau

Château de Chenonceau has a long and intriguing history, dating back to the 13th century. The original château was more of a house that was burnt to the ground and sold to new owners centuries later. The beginning of the castle we see today is thanks to Thomas Bohier and his wife Katherine, who built the Renaissance home. The original château was then added on to over the years by the women who followed.  

Fun Fact: Mary, Queen of Scots, married Catherin de’ Medici’s son Francis II at Chenonceau.

The Women of Chenonceau

 

It is nicknamed the “Château des Dames” or lady’s château because many important and influential women have had connections to the castle at some point in history. One of the first well-known female inhabitants was Diane de Poitiers. She was first the governess of King Henry II when he was a young boy and eventually became his mistress and the love of his life. He gave the château as a gift to her in the 16th century, and even hundreds of years later, evidence of his devotion to her still remains.

 

Diane was the one who commissioned the bridge that now spans the River Cher. She hired Philibert de l’Orme, who designed the five arch bridge that has made the château so popular. Diane also was responsible for the French-style gardens that are still around today.

 

After the death of King Henry II, his wife Catherine de Medici banished Diane and kept the castle for herself. Catherine was a member of the influential Medici family of bankers that had power and influence over much of Italy.

 

Catherine added to the Chenonceau by building the grand gallery on top of the bridge Diane had previously commissioned. She then designed the stables on the grounds, which you can visit on your way to the wine cellars.

 

Fast forward a couple of hundred years to the late 1700s when Louis Dupin decided to reside at Chenonceau. She was one of the first female activists of her time and fought for the right of women to have a proper education. She became good friends with some of the top poets and philosophers of the time, including Voltaire, who was a frequent guest at Chenonceau.

 

For the next hundred or so years, the château passed from owner to owner until Henri Menier, the chocolatier, bought it in 1913. The fully restored castle is open for visitors, thanks to the Menier family, who still own Chenonceau today.

 

Involvement in WWII

 

If being the home of some of the most famous French royalty of the 16th century isn’t enough to make you want to visit, then here is another piece of the castle’s history.

 

Chenonceau survived the French Revolution and two World Wars. In WWI, the Menier family decided to turn part of the residence into a hospital for wounded soldiers.

 

Then, Chenonceau played an even more critical role in WWII as a way to get people from one side of the River Cher to freedom on the other. At the time, France was divided into occupied and free territories separated by the river. Resistance members used the château as an inconspicuous way of getting people to freedom. 

 

Unfortunately, the castle fell under German control and faced much damage due to bombings during the war. Since then, it has been completely restored.

Guide to Chateau de Chenonceau

How to Get to Château de Chenonceau

Chenonceau is located just outside the village of Chenonceaux in the Loire Valley. It is a 2.5-hour drive from Paris and close to some of the Loire Valley’s larger towns, such as Tours and Amboise.

 

There is no direct train or bus to any Loire Valley castles from Paris. If you want to take a train, you must first travel to one of the nearby towns and take the TER from there.

 

The best way is to take the train from the Paris Montparnasse station to the St Pierre Des Corps station in Tours. Then, you will jump onto a second train to Chenonceaux station, which is close to the château’s parking lot.

 

The easiest way to get to Chenonceau is to join a tour or rent a car. If you are already staying in the Loire Valley, chances are you have a rental car at your disposal.

 

Distance from Loire Valley Towns:

    • Amboise – 15 minutes
    • Tours – 40 minutes
    • Blois – 45 minutes
    • Orléans – 90 minutes

From Paris Full Day Loire Valley Tours

 

If you are just interested in visiting the main castles of the Loire Valley, then this Full-Day Castle Tour is a great one for you to join. You will visit three magical castles, Chenonceau, Chambord, and Amboise. This small-group tour picks you up and drops you back off from Paris. It also includes free admission to the castles and audio guides if requested.

 

We opted for the Loire Valley Castles, Wine Tasting, and Lunch Tour. It includes transportation for the day, admission to two of the most famous castles in the area, and lunch with wine tasting at a quaint family-run vineyard.

 

Best Times to Visit

 

Since Château de Chenonceau is one of the most famous châteaux in France, just behind Versailles, it does get pretty crowded. However, although we visited during July, the busiest season of the year, we surprisingly did not feel like it was too busy. Part of the reason could be that we visited during the week instead of the weekend.

 

If you are visiting on your own, I suggest you get there at 9 am when it opens to have the most intimate experience possible. Start with a castle tour, then explore the garden and wine cellars.

Guide to Chateau de Chenonceau

Where to Stay in the Loire Valley

Tours

  • Château de la Bourdaisière: François I built this beautiful hotel. Today it is a hotel equipped with rooms in the main castle, the Pavillion Choiseul, and Clos Bourdaisière. There are many things to do on the property: hiking trails, tennis courts, and an outdoor swimming pool are available for guest use. The property is also home to a tomato conservatory with 700 varieties of tomatoes, a park, and gardens. 
  • The Domaine de la Tortinière: This luxury hotel is within 15 km of the city of Tours. The château is on 15 acres of wooded park with views of the valley and Indre river. Guests can enjoy tennis courts, a heated swimming pool, a massage room, and a billiard room. The Domaine de la Tortinière also has an outdoor playground and babysitting services.

Bloise

  • Relais de Chambord: This boutique hotel sits on a 5,440 hector estate next to Château de Chambord. The property offers 25 km of walking trails, 12 km of cycling paths, tennis courts, horseback riding, and carriage rides. You can choose from six different types of rooms, all with amazing views of the property. You can even stay in a boat on the water! Make sure to grab lunch or dinner at their restaurant, le Grand Saint-Michel, with a view of the castle. 
  • Hauts de Loire: Hauts de Loire is one of the most picturesque hotels. Originally used as a hunting lodge, the Hauts de Loire sits on over 180 acres and has everything you need for a relaxing getaway. Choose between a variety of rooms in either the castle or the carriage house. All rooms come with an assortment of amenities. Residents can wander through the grounds, relax at the pool, or play tennis. In addition, the hotel has spa services, a fitness club, and a Kids Club. To get the most from your experience, Hauts de Loire has put together some beautiful packages for you. Make sure to check them out before making your reservation!

Amboise

  • Château de Perreux: Located only 2 km from Amboise, this boutique hotel offers a quiet retreat while being close to local restaurants and attractions. The owners have done a great job restoring the property while keeping the finishes authentic. You can choose four types of rooms, all with elevator access and air conditioning. In addition, Château de Perreux has a large heated pool, outdoor hammock and sitting areas, and beautiful gardens.
  • Le Clos d’Amboise: This 17-century house became a hotel in 2003. It had originally belonged to the Grand Squire of Louis XIV and Louis XV. It is centrally located in Amboise and close to restaurants, shopping, vineyards, and attractions such as the Close Lucé, Blois, and Cheverny. The property is very tranquil, with lovely gardens, a swimming pool, a bar, and a salon for guests to relax. The Le Clos d’Amboise staff will happily arrange bike rentals and book tours for you.

Visiting Information

Opening hours

    • January 1 & 2: 9:30 am – 5:30 pm
    • January 3 – April: 9:30 am – 4:30 pm
    • April 9 – May 29: 9:00 am – 5:30 pm
    • May 30 – July 8: 9:00 am – 6:00 pm
    • July 9 – August 28: 9:00 am – 7:00 pm
    • August 29 – September 30: 9:00 am – 6:30 pm
    • October 1 – November 1: 9:00 am – 5:30 pm
    • November 2 – December 16: 9:30 – 4:30 pm
    • December 17-31: 9:30 am – 5:30 pm

Tickets

Entrance to the château is ¢15 for adults and ¢13 for children ages 7-18. Children under the age of 7 get in for free. For an additional ¢4, you can also get an audio guide. If you visit Chenonceau as part of a tour group, entrance tickets are included in the cost of your tour. 

 

I recommend spending the extra euros on an audio guide. There is so much information to learn about the castle and its previous owners that you will miss without one.

 

You can either purchase tickets online or at the ticket office at the property entrance. You will pay the same amount either way, but purchasing tickets in advance prevents waiting in a long line at the ticket booth. 

 

Special Events

Besides touring the premises, the grounds are open throughout the year for various events. From workshops and wine tastings to concerts and garden parties, the Chenonceau is open all year round so that others can enjoy the property and glimpse its magnificent past.

Guide to Chateau de Chenonceau

What to see at Château de Chenonceau

Ground floor

Unlike other châteaux in the Loire Valley, like Chambord, that were used as hunting lodges, Chenonceau was a primary residence and is, therefore, fully furnished. Each room is decorated floor-to-ceiling with expensive furnishings, large fireplaces, and fine art. The owners have done an impressive job turning the castle back into its former Renaissance brilliance.

 

Throughout the property, you can see carvings of a salamander, the symbol of the French royal family. You can also see carvings of an interconnected “H” and “D,” the initials of King Henry II and Diane de Poitiers.

 

You can find Diane’s bedroom on the first floor with the H&D engravings on her fireplace. The engravings should actually be of a C & H for Henry and Catherine, but they resemble the initials of Diane and Henry instead. Coincidence?

Another room you will see on the first floor is Francois I’s drawing room. It is decorated with expensive wallpaper and features a four-poster bed with elaborate drapery in the middle.

The Upper Floors

The castle’s upper floors are decorated much differently than the ground floor. They are adorned with more of an Italian influence, partly due to Catherine de Medici. After she took possession of the châteaux, she had several items brought from Italy to be displayed.

 

You can visit the Five Queen’s Bedroom and several other bedrooms on these floors. The Five Queen’s bedroom is called that because it was the main bedroom the wives of prominent kings used. Some queens that stayed here include Mary, Queen of Scots, Elisabeth of Austria, and Catherine’s daughters.

 

The Grand Gallery

The long gallery extends from the main châteaux, over the River Cher, to the opposite bank. The traditional black and white floor, chandeliers, and 18 floor to ceiling windows made this a popular place for entertaining and is still used today for functions.

 

Some of the best photos of the châteaux are from the opposite side of the river. You can get the perfect shot of the gallery from outside.

Gardens

The gardens on the property are stunning and make for a romantic stroll after you tour the castle. There are several different gardens at Chenonceau, the most popular belonged to Diane, and the other to Catherine.

 

Diane’s gardens are to the left of the castle as you approach from the main gravel path at the entrance. They are known for their floating structure on top of the water. 

 

The formal French garden is full of daisies, roses, and other colorful flowers planted twice a year. In the center of the garden is a large fountain, surrounded by footpaths and trees.

 

The gardens are divided by alleyways used for walking and surrounded by a tall wall to protect from flooding. But, most importantly, they remain exactly as they were when Diane first commissioned them.

 

Catherine’s garden is on the other side of the châteaux. There is a large pond at its center and five grassy areas lined with flowers, orange and rose trees, and pathways. Catherin was also responsible for the Italian labyrinth made of over 2000 trees.

Guide to Chateau de Chenonceau

Grounds

One of the best parts of the Chenonceau is the long gravel path from the parking lot to the entrance. The walkway is lined with tall, immaculately groomed trees, lush green grass, and a perfect view of the châteaux in the distance. 

 

Once you reach the castle steps, look down at the water, and you will see couples enjoying a peaceful afternoon in a rowboat rental. 

 

Further down from the castle is a farmhouse, Catherine’s stables, a wine cellar, and a restaurant. Though the stables are no longer in use, you can see some of the old carriages that the previous owners once used. You can also see some vintage Bentleys displayed. 

Guide to Chateau de Chenonceau

Where to Eat at Chenonceau

There are several places to eat on the property. For a nice sit-down meal, stop by l’Orangerie in the Green Garden. They create all their dishes using produce that is grown on-site. I recommend making reservations ahead of time as they get busy.

 

If you do not want a formal meal, you can grab a sandwich or snack at the Summer Snack bar. Many visitors enjoy this because they can eat alongside the river or at the picnic area.

 

We also saw many people with their own picnic baskets enjoying a relaxing lunch and bottle of wine under the shade of the property’s large trees.

Wine Cellar

The wine tasting was an added surprise to our visit. I just found out that the property had its’ own working vineyard. Near the stables, you will find the 16th -century caves open for visitors from mid-March to mid-November.

 

The estate grows AOC Touraine Chenonceaux white and red wine and sparking wine and rosé, which you can only buy from them.

 

We were able to join a complimentary wine tasting and bought a couple of bottles to take back to our hotel. Bottles are purchased individually or in cases of three. 

Conclusion

Travel Planning Resources

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Hey, I’m Ally! Welcome to Cafes and Getaways. I’ll be sharing details on my latest travel destinations, as well as tips and tricks to help you plan your next adventure.

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